As the 87th Pitti Uomo draws to a close it’s time to ignore the Australian heat and look to the future trends for the coming autumn and winter. Designers from all over the globe descended upon Florence to showcase their upcoming 2015/16 F-W collections. So here’s what you need to know from Pitti 87.
The Big Names
True to Italian style, bold and trendsetting looks were dominant from the big names. Timeless sartorial tradition held true to etiquette, but also made way unexpected combinations of high fashion and streetwear.
Also making ripples were patriotic American labels showcasing Southern style on the runway. In particular was the rugged mix of shearling outwear and canvas trousers that made up MSL by Billy Reid.
UNCONVENTIONAL Underground Luxury
Pitti 87 saw the launch of UNCONVENTIONAL. Held at the Archivi inside the Fortezza da Basso, this debut paid tribute to the trend-setting non-conformists with a selection of international brands and collections strong in style and personality. Featured were 20 international designers of accessories, clothing, jewellery, fragrances and footwear, including Alberto Premi, Artselab, Benan Bal, Casamadre and Hood by Air (below):
For many this was the long-awaited affirmation of rule-breaking style at the highest level. Those daring to blend high fashion with streetwear and imbue elegance with unorthodox personal style were celebrated and showcased to the world.
Japanese Fashion in the Western World
Japanese style made a big mark this year with the elegant mix of cultural traditions and contemporary sartorial methods. Susuzan showcased a new collection of exquisite handmade Japanese scarves that mash traditional Japanese shibori with contemporary Western style.
And Andrea Incontri continued to impress with his renowned individual style. The Pitti 87 Designer Project returned from a four year hiatus with a simplistic and functional men’s clothing and accessory collection for Fall-Winter 2015/16 that stayed true to his architectural heritage and Japanese influence and market connections (below).
Pitti Uomo is one of the greatest launching pads for new labels, and here are a few to watch following Pitti 87. Begüm Khan, the project of Ali Behnam Bakhtiar and Rufat Ismayil, impressed many with their Middle Eastern-influenced luxury cufflinks. For those seeking an elegant approach to their sportswear Afffair presented a luxurious collection of knits and sweatsuits.
Stockholm’s Army of Me pushed gender stereotypes with their mysterious but impressive collection of heavy fabrics and androgynous style. And on debut was Sastreria 91, a Spanish haute couture accessory label. Unique and beautiful, the collection included collars, bowties, hats and more made unique by exquisite feather compositions and features (below).
What does this mean?
So as Pitti 87 closes its doors, one of the boldest messages sent by the Italian fashion extravaganza this year is that personal style and unorthodox fashion belongs on the runway. So find your look, refine it and wear it with confidence.